The Double Ninth Festival, also known as "Taqiu" (Ascending Autumn), is, along with the "Tachun" (Spring Outing) on the third day of the third lunar month, an occasion for the entire family to go out. On this day, all relatives must ascend a height to "avoid disasters," insert cornel branches, and appreciate chrysanthemums. What should be noted about the diet for the Double Ninth Festival? What do people eat during the Double Ninth Festival?
The Double Ninth Festival on the ninth day of the ninth lunar month is a day for climbing high to gaze into the distance and miss loved ones. As with traditional Chinese festivals, this one is closely linked with food. What is good to eat during the Double Ninth Festival? Traditionally, people eat Double Ninth cakes and drink chrysanthemum wine. Of course, the ninth day of the ninth lunar month is also the time when chrysanthemums are yellow and crabs are fat, so eating crabs is also very convenient.
The Flower Cake and Chestnut Cake of the Double Ninth Festival
Among Beijing's snacks, two are specifically eaten during the Double Ninth Festival: one is the flower cake, and the other is the chestnut cake.
The flower cake, also known as the chestnut cake, is made by steaming glutinous rice flour with water. A damp cloth is used to wrap the steamed glutinous rice flour, which is then kneaded until smooth and divided into four pieces. Each piece is then rolled into a 2 cm thick sheet on a cutting board. A layer of bean paste is spread, followed by another layer of glutinous rice flour. This process is repeated for three or four layers. Finally, cooked chestnuts, peach kernels, and melon seeds are densely arranged on top, and finally, Beijing cake shreds and preserved green plums are sprinkled on top. It looks and tastes similar to a multi-layered flaky pastry. In the past, the flower cakes made by Zhimeizhai and Guixinzhai near Dongsi Pailou in Beijing were the most famous.
The chestnut cake is made primarily with chestnut puree. The specific method is: peel the raw chestnuts, steam them, and then mash them into a puree, dividing it into three portions. One portion is spread as the base, then a layer of Beijing cake shreds is added, followed by a layer of chestnut puree, then a layer of clear bean paste filling, and finally the third portion of chestnut puree is spread on top. Small pieces of Beijing cake shreds and preserved green plum threads are then used to create various patterns. This completes the chestnut cake, which is layered in five tiers with yellow, red, and brown colors. When eating, a syrup made from sugar and osmanthus is poured over it.
The custom of eating flower cakes during the Double Ninth Festival in China dates back to the Han Dynasty. According to the "Xijing Zaji" of that time: "On the ninth day of the ninth month, wear cornel branches, eat蓬饵 (peng er), drink chrysanthemum wine, and one will have a long life." The term "食蓬饵" means eating蓬糕 (peng cake). Speaking of eating Double Ninth cakes on the ninth day of the ninth month, there is an ancient legend among the people: In ancient times, a simple and kind farmer lived on a high mountain. One day while plowing, he met an old man who told him that on the ninth day of the ninth month, his family would encounter disaster and must move to a higher place, the higher the better. The farmer was half-skeptical and half-convinced, and after hesitating, he finally made up his mind on the morning of the ninth day of the ninth month and moved his family up the mountain. Not long after they left, their original home was engulfed in fire. The fire spread upwards with the wind. He and his family kept climbing upwards until they reached the peak, only then avoiding the flames. Afterwards, the custom of ascending high to avoid disaster on the ninth day of the ninth month began. Later, for convenience, this gradually evolved into the custom of "eating cake" instead of "climbing high" to seek the avoidance of disaster.
Three Food Customs of the Double Ninth Festival
In ancient times, the third day of the third lunar month was considered a major festival of spring, called Shangsi; the ninth day of the ninth lunar month was a major festival of autumn, called the Double Ninth. Shangsi was for spring outings, a custom later replaced by the Qingming Festival, but the auspicious date "March 3rd" remains an important festival for ethnic minorities such as the Zhuang, Li, and She peoples. The ninth day of the ninth month is highly valued because the month and day have the same sound, and it is in the autumn. The "I Ching" (Book of Changes) designates "nine" as a yang number, and since "nine" is the largest yang number, two nines are called "double nine" (chong jiu), and two yangs are called "double yang" (chongyang), which can evoke many associations. After the Mid-Autumn Festival, the deep autumn arrives, and the change of season prompts reflections on life. The intersection of various emotions has caused the Double Ninth Festival to develop into a festival focused on entertainment. Among the festival food customs, there are three items, commonly known as the "Three Treasures."
First, one must drink "chrysanthemum wine" during the Double Ninth Festival. "Nine nine" (jiu jiu) is a homophone for "long time" (jiu jiu) and also has the same sound as "wine" (jiu). This has given rise to the custom of drinking chrysanthemum wine on this day. In the golden autumn of September, chrysanthemums proudly bloom in the frost. Literati call September the "Chrysanthemum Month," and common people call chrysanthemums the "Nine Flowers." Beijing regards the chrysanthemum as one of its city flowers. Due to the chrysanthemum's unique character of resisting the cold, it has become a symbol of vitality. In ancient times, it had extraordinary cultural significance and was considered the "guest of longevity" and the "herb of not growing old," believed to help one remain strong in old age.
Second, one eats flower cake. The Double Ninth Festival is a time for respecting the elderly and climbing high to avoid disaster. "Cake" (gao) is a homophone for "high" (gao), and it also carries the meaning of "rising step by step" and "a high age of ninety-nine." Therefore, the "Double Ninth flower cake" has become a widely popular festival food. In the crisp autumn air, people climb high to bid farewell to the green scenery, taste the flower cake, appreciate chrysanthemums, recite poems by Tao Yuanming, and hold various activities to honor the elderly, filled with family affection. In southern China, it is common to wear cornel branches to ward off evil during the Double Ninth Festival, while in Beijing, the focus is mainly on respecting the elderly, so there is more appreciation of chrysanthemums and less wearing of cornel branches.
Third, one eats lamb noodles. "Lamb" (yang) is a homophone for "yang" (as in yang energy), corresponding to the theme of the Double Ninth Festival. The noodles must be made from white flour. "White" (bai) is the character for "hundred" (bai) with the top "one" removed, implying one hundred minus one equals ninety-nine, thus corresponding to the "nine nine" theme. In the capital, a 99th birthday is called a "White Birthday" (Bai Shou). Wealthy families can hold banquets centered on lamb that day, featuring stir-frying, roasting, hot pot, and even a whole lamb feast. Autumn is the season when sheep are at their fattest, and lamb is warming and can help ward off the cold.